Tuesday, December 23, 2008

trip journal 2

8:28PM, Saturday
my head feels tight, my neck tense, slept for an hour or 2 after the beer. only 60 pgs through Erewhon.

12:35AM, Sunday
more sleep- wandered through the whole of the train- got starred at- the food car is a moving cafe- tired of Butler, on to Rorty- deciding that the Turkish educational system is run by Platonists.-

watched the cutest boy get smacked hard across the face by his baba- i just about to take a picture of him- 4 yrs old but he starred at his father- no hint of tears- the boy instead explained calmly to his father what he had been doing- he had a bottle of orange soda and was dancing with it, entertaining the travelers around him- slapped for insubordination and nothing else.

1:50AM
listening to Of Montreal, "he's just a slutty little flirt...," happy after some Philosophy and Social Hope and hot tea- want to dance in the comfortable aisles of this sleeping train.

4:15AM
Kaseri- we've been through the mountains, Erzincan and Sivas, to Ankara now. K got off here, and so did the Gendarme, the rural army, who rode with us for 2 hrs, pulling through bags, recording ID numbers with a microphone, machine guns slung over their shoulders. my first time for this, but i'm not surprised. i see a machine gun a day in Erzurum and slide through random checkpoints and metal detectors, often with pockets full of change, detectors detecting nothing, or beeping and the guard waving us through.

the irrelevant theatre of power. only slightly more clear in Turkey than in america. they checked none of my bags and these ID numbers, i know through the bureaucratic mess of getting my residence permit, will only be lost and forgotten with millions of others.

the purpose is not detection but the appearance of detection, like taking my shoes off in an american airport, or standing in that ridiculous air-puffer room- the purpose is not to find anything, like i would put something in the sole of my shoe i couldn't put in my pocket, but for me to bow to the theatre of power by inconveniencing myself, disrupting my travel, as if i'm admitting in my silence that yes, you should be doing this, you have every right to, sir, for my protection, i bow to you, happily look at my shoe, take my number, disrupt the order of my clothes, anything else? let's make sure we take every precaution.

halfway through my trip.

6:14AM
i wake up to a vivid, alien scenery, but can't turn the god-damned flash off my camera. i will disable it manually if forced to- i hate, passionately, hate flash- didn't Sony imagine a situation in which one wanted to capture a beautiful scene through a window? what the fuck.



9:08AM
the car is the quietest it has been- folks sprawled out, mouths agape, in all sorts of interesting forms- impossible for me to get more than 2 hrs sleep at a time-

7:50PM
sitting in the restaurant car, this moving, mostly empty cafe- sitting alone, reading, Raki, french fries. i think that is the Marmara sea outside my window, bridges lit up. 2 hrs from Istanbul.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

trip journal 1

1:40 pm, Sunday December 6th

i'm headed slowly through the mountains now- the valleys opening up at moments with humbling sights- the plains here in the valleys, the icy brooks running through them and the snow-capped mountains in the distance have me thinking of glaciers and tectonic plates.

-just now we've slid into our first tunnel, cutting through a rocky hill- in these plains I see sheep and lamb and mountain goats and cattle, followed by young boys with long sticks- I want to take a picture of them but i've already revealed myself as a yabanci, helpless in communication if i wasn't, by chance, sitting right behind a highschool english teacher. i am a foreigner, but don't want to reveal myself as a rich foreigner yet- a student of mine told me not to fall asleep cause someone would nab my wallet, an exaggeration from a suburbanite Turk, but i think i'll be careful- anyway the beauty of this orange light on the thin grasses running up hills and my slow crawl through them would be lost in whatever picture I might take.

-on the train some are reading the papers, sleeping, studying for tests, losing themselves in the scenery, and two 30 something men are taking turns in their double seat to pray, kneeling and stretching towards Mecca- i read Samuel Butler's highly pastoral introduction to Erewhon and think of myself in the novel- biding my time as i move slowly through the mountain to a city so large and busy in comparison i can't really believe it.


to be meat and a person from tüpbebek on Vimeo.

4:25pm
humanity, children, beer
an old woman found the only non-Turk on the train to scream at- waking me from my daze- wanting my seat for reasons unknown, practically jumping into my lap. was i in her seat? did she have no seat and so demanded mine? did she have a mental disorder? my new english speaking friend calmed her and offered her his seat. and i soon learned of her bad knees and her sudden need to rest- after a few minutes, she made her way to the back of the car, with another woman, and the help of the high school english teacher and some other young men carrying her bags.

-later two young girls approached him, 10 or 11, trying to read his english essay. i handed them Erewhon and they flipped through it curiously before proclaiming they “do not love english.” i asked their names. they wore long pink and bright green dresses and had matching boots and socks- shy but unafraid to approach foreign strangers. i'm committing myself to learning more Turkish because i want to communicate with children. in these moments- K, my friend taking the women's bags, and the two strangers next to us moving over in their double seat to fit K- i saw the train come alive- smiling, together on our journey and in this moment writing i'm content but not drunk, after K bought me 2 pints of beer and mercimek soup. i'm lucky here, in this seat, in this company, on this grinding train, next to these humbling mountains.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

home

.
back yesterday, -15F with snow.
gonna break my ass on the ice anytime.
long underwear from a street vendor, 7 lira well-spent.
.

Friday, December 5, 2008

the plan

the week of Dec. 8th is Kurban Bayram (Sacrifice Holiday). it follows the story of Abraham, which is about exactly the same in the Qur'an and the Bible. (if you don't know, it happened like this). so for the Bayram they make or find those spiritual meats, and they eat them and give them.

my Bayram means time, travel, and a plan:
  • Erzurum to Istanbul by train Dec. 6th and 7th (33hrs and 647 miles- i was asked "what made you decide not to walk?" next time, my friend)
  • read Samuel Butler's Erewhon, Buket Uzuner's Istanbullu, Richard Rorty's Philosophy and Social Hope
  • take pictures, study Turkish, find someone to play chess with
  • find a way to a bed, a floor, a couch
  • meet C. and see his Istanbul
  • find used books, used clothes, and Indian food
  • film cats in the street and old houses
  • bus ride to Ankara and then Konya Dec. 11 (8-9hrs 365miles)
  • read the Qur'an, study Turkish, listen to DemNow
  • find my way to a bed, couch, floor, bar, pide
  • watch the dervishes whirl
  • eat dinner with another C's parents
  • play chess with M
  • Sunday morning bus ride to Ankara (2-3hrs 138 miles)
  • read the Masnavi
  • Ankara to Erzurum by train (23hrs 447 miles)
  • listen to Bob Dylan
  • read Howard Zinn's People's History, Jane Mayer's The Dark Side, Orhan Pamuk's My Name is Red
  • stretch
  • teach my Monday night class
  • tell you what happened

Monday, December 1, 2008

be patient, this gets amazing

+
in an earlier post, talking about Obama and the appointment of Rham Emanuel, i mentioned how Hamas, a democratically elected government party nonetheless branded a terrorist organization, has a more rational and humane policy than the Bush administration and Obama (if we take the Obama at the AIPAC). and the following article compares another militant supporter of Israel (Hilary Clinton) to the more rational and humane policy ideas of Israel's prime minister (Ehud Olmert). how is that possible? i don't know, and i don't know what else to say. read the article here.

-----

by the way- when i tag this post and others "fuck" i mean it in almost the exact same way Jon Stewart uses it at the end of this video, talking about the Bush administration refusing to open an email from the EPA. it is a "fuck!" that is frustrated in response to government policy that defies logical thought and basic humanity.

Saturday, November 29, 2008

Turkey's turkey- my thanksgiving

my normal thanksgiving is turkey and ham, potatoes, some football i'm not really watching, maybe a beer and some wine, sparkling white grape juice, falling asleep in the corner of a leather couch, keeping myself occupied with brothers, family, books, video games, lots of dessert, waking up in the backseat when we pull into my subdivision at home. in the last years it has been similar, minus family and plus grad students, spending the day writing seminar papers before i eat.

this year we're substituting butterball for village-fresh turkey, picked, plucked, and slaughtered in front of my friend T. 4 americans are sharing the experience with about 12 Turks, filling one of our small apartments, using our collective utensils, tables and chairs, hoping the holiday translates.

post meal update:
good. nice turkey, some great stuffing, too much dessert, raki, and wine. then i beat a Turkish boy in chess- i shouldn't brag cause he's like 10 but he's really good and is nicknamed "yaşlı adam" (the old man) because of how much he plays board games. afterward we went up Palandöken and watched some Turkish folk music and tried to dance.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

tüp walks into an empty classroom

i have 42 students in my speaking and listening class, from 7-9 on Thursday. today only 1 of them showed up for class.

4 groups of students came into my room about an hour before, asking if they had class. yes we have class. there is no reason for us not to have class.

the students are taking exams, 4 in total, over the next two weeks. for some reason, that means they will not be showing up for regular class, or that 1 of 42 is to be expected.

i don't know if i should blame the students or the educational system, but something is wrong here, and i'm stuck in the middle of it, wondering why i traveled halfway across the world and prepared a lesson and a creative assignment to walk into an empty classroom.

i believe in directly democratic education. i think good leaders lead by following and when i have power in a situation, like the classroom, i try to remember that. an ideal classroom, then, is run by the students' own intellectual curiosity.

but i can't practice democratic education if i don't have students, or if they democratically decide to skip class.

in my ideal classroom situation, students come not because of grades, but because they have something important to learn (it sounds obvious). John Dewey (who, ironically, visited Turkey and worked with Kemal Atatürk on modernizing the educational system) bases his educational philosophy on the idea of growing. education is growing. the teacher's job is to help the student grow and to create conditions for further growth (more learning) based on the student's own desires and curiosities.

i will admit that my class can be boring. some days i don't prepare as hard as i could have, some days i take on more or less conventional lesson plans, but really the problem is that either i don't know or don't agree with the reason students are in my classroom.

the Turkish educational system is like No Child Left Behind on steroids. the only real assessment is via standardized testing. just 10-15% of the students who want to go to a University are accepted and that acceptance is determined by a 90 minute standardized test (the test also determines which fields they can study in). the test is offered once a year and some students take it up to three times before being accepted (what do they do during that three years?).

before taking the exam, students go to Dersane school on nights and weekends for a year to prepare (usually while attending High School). Each year, families in Turkey spend more money than the Turkish Ministry of Education on Dersane, a school that teaches for and to the test (like the Kaplan prep classes- again on steroids). (with all that money they could fund real schools that fit every child who wants a real education.) I asked students if they learned anything in these schools besides how to succeed on the test, and they answered flatly, "no."

the now infamous William Ayers, in a recent interview, discussed the one thing that separated expectations of students in a Fascist and a Democratic society. students in both social systems, he explained, are expected to show up for class, do their homework, and respect their teacher. but in a Fascist society students are taught to conform, to believe that there is one universally true answer to every question- the type of reality one could use to fill in multiple choice ovals. in a democratic society, students are taught creativity, independence, the ability criticize and question, and to see themselves as part of a larger society, one that is historical, ideological, and complex.

let's make it clear that i'm not only critiquing the Turkish educational system. the United States, in the last 8 years in particular, is moving towards more standardized assessment, to teaching to the test, to the absence of history, complexity, and creativity- to simple minds and simple answers. the U.S. proclamation of democracy does not mean democratic education, far from it.

Alfie Kohn critiques the American education system for a "do this, get that" mentality. a system dependent on gold stars, As, and other meaningless rewards (like a well-paying job but no critical consciousness). Kohn on No Child Left Behind:

Let's be clear: This law has nothing to do with improving learning. At best, it's about raising scores on multiple-choice exams. This law is not about discovering which schools need help; we already know. This law is not about narrowing the achievement gap; its main effect has been to sentence poor children to an endless regimen of test-preparation drills. Thus, even if the scores do rise, it's at the expense of a quality education.

Genç Siviler, a student group for social justice, on the Turkish educational system:

Universities are lumber factories. This is the role the regime finds appropriate for them. You put different sizes of logs onto the chopping table and cut the standard sizes needed according to the demands of the country. This type of uniform production creates a human model that follows orders -- it does not matter whether it’s coming from right or left or center -- without thinking, and this human is ready to fight when called to duty. There is no creativity, no pluralism and no freedom of thought at universities.

i was the only teacher to not have an exam this week- high stakes testing doesn't fit with my educational philosophy. it is a good way to rank students, but that ranking will have little to do with their ability to act in society or to continue their education. for Dewey, education is in a lot of ways about the ability to continue learning- to grow and build on your education and apply it in real life. and standardized testing certainly diminishes that. all that buildup and then a purely meaningless release- an 83% and another round of memorization for all your years of study.

it is clear that my class, after studying all night for an exam, didn't have any motivation for the examless class. i can't fault them- the students are just being pragmatic materialists- there is no clear and quantifiable "get that" to the "do this" of my classroom, at least at the moment.

the question is what to do- do i punish my students with a written quiz, asking for 1,200 words in response to the question "what are you doing here?" and throwing out any student who speaks or looks up from their paper? do i not show up for class the rest of the week so they can feel what it's like to walk into a deserted classroom? (the students have a week-long break coming up in mid-December, but the majority of them, i'm told, will take an extra week off while i continue to walk into nearly empty classrooms- so i don't think adding to their lack of education is the answer). do i conform? make it easy on myself and start giving exams for people who don't think (most standardized exams are harder for those who do), and pursuing my own curiosities outside the classroom: reading, writing, working on art projects. a teacher with no ambition can gain a lot of free time.

and the sad thing is that the students respond so well to informal education when they are not bombarded by a series of exams (this assault happens 3 times a semester, leaving little time between to recover for real learning). my best classes have been done with students outside the classroom, in my office, or sitting down at their level and having discussions about topics important to their lives (like education, for instance) then i see them as creative and thoughtful- they are already so resistant to the form of education that demands sleepless nights of memorization and 50 minute sessions of pencil shaking recitation, i just wish they would show up for class and we could talk about it.

But really not that overwhelmed

i also thought, as i wrote the last post, that i could be teaching special ed math and science to sixth graders in south-central LA or many other infinitely more difficult jobs.

there is a demand here to be in contact with a native English-speaker, and so i have more and more students all the time and droves of visitors coming to my office (students and non-students both). papers are piling up, homework needs to be looked through, attendance calculated, and students become sensitive when i can't remember their names.

but then sometimes my smaller speaking classes decide to go out for dinner instead of sitting in the classroom. the students are funny, thoughtful, and curious, and i end up learning more than they do. walking to a coffee shop and restaurant for a meal last night with my students, i thought "this is my job?" we talked about religion, family life, love, horror films, and Nietzsche. and they paid for my dinner. i have had to work very hard to pay for a meal here.

Overwhelmed

so, i'm teaching 8 classes, 20 hours of class a week, and have 350 students. as a comparison, the largest teaching load for a college English instructor in the states is something like 6 classes and 120 students at a community college. and, because of the heavy work-load, one of my well meaning professors said he would rather commit suicide than teach at a community college. how about triple the students?

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Obama

i started this blog post a week ago, just 2 days after seeing Obama's acceptance speech, choking up when hearing Obama's refrain, watching the crowd near my home town, feeling comfort in the fact that the citizenry finally toppled the Bush empire.

i believe that we can change societies because i've witnessed it happen. and, while i battled the post's pretensions and let it sit, i watched as people around the globe expressed their beliefs and hopes of social change with our new president.

-----

Symbols are powerful things. Sometimes they have a life all their own. They may come to mean something more than first intended. History has been made. We shall see what kind of history it will be.

-Mumia Abu-Jamal, Prison Radio


Obama represents possibility, an ethical climb to a more just world order, and proof of our continuing social unfinishedness. in 1619 a European ship carrying 20 African Slaves landed in Jamestown to work in the growing tobacco fields. many humanitarian battles later, we have a half-African elected president of the United States. just 43 years after blacks gained real voting rights, the country's youth and minority came out in support of a black president. while the last eight years will come to represent madness, greed, fear, prejudice, stupidity, and depression, we have elected a president who embodies the possibility of social progress.


but what should we do now?--those of us who won't base our economic and social systems on the belief that humanity is by nature greedy and vindictive, and those of us who remain unconvinced that Christ's second coming is the solution to global warming and inhumane occupations in the Middle East. what should we do to help pass the progressive legislation we hope for with Obama?


-----

No we haven't.

we elected symbolic power, kinetic energy-Yes we did on November 4th. we resisted another masthead of idiotic, fear-mongering religious fanatics-Yes we did. and we should celebrate- Yes we have--but let's not be too pleased. we elected a progressive symbol, but let's not get that confused with Obama's function as a policy maker. Let's have no illusions. We suffered 8 years of illusions and can stand no more.


Obama's executive decisions just began, and we already have a disconnect between the progressive symbol of Obama and his moderate-conservative economic and foreign policy positions. just after the election, he named RahmRhambo” Israel Emanuel as his chief of staff. what should concern us here is Rhambo's stance on the gravest humanitarian concern of our time- the Israeli occupation of the West Bank and the Gaza Strip. the Gaza Strip has effectively become a 140 square mile prison, one in which Israel has recently barred the U.N. delivery of all food and “basic humanitarian assistance,” starving 750,000 Palestinian civilians. Obama's appointment of an Anti-Palestine chief of staff should be no surprise, considering the absurd concessions Obama made to AIPAC ("Jerusalem will remain the capital of Israel and it must remain undivided"- a comment that “exceeds what most Israeli leaders would say”). under a rational, humanist president, the Gaza Strip wouldn't exist in its current form for another day (even Hamas, a democratically elected government party nonetheless labeled a terrorist organization, has called for a two-state solution), but Obama's first appointment and his stance throughout his campaign has signaled no positive change on this issue of basic humanity. today, we need to view Obama with suspicion instead of being blinded by his symbolic progressivism. those who starve in Palestine tonight, and who will continue to suffer if we leave Obama to rule uncritiqued, have no illusions of change. we can't afford any illusions either.


after Greenspan blew his mind and deregulation brought the world's economy to its knees, one commentator stated "with Democrats like these, who needs Republicans" when referencing Obama's pics for Treasury Secretary, Goldman Sachs was Obama's 2nd largest contributor of campaign funds, Obama has moved toward the center when talking about the war in Iraq and has promised more warfare in Pakistan and Afghanistan, he doesn't support gay marriage, and he hasn't yet put his support behind John Conyer's single-payer health care plan.


the message is that we haven't won anything but the opportunity for change. we're done selling Obama, and we used great energy and collaboration to get him elected- now we have to maintain that energy to educate about rational legislation (i would say "sell" "progressive" legislation, but basic rights should be mainstream and need no advertisement). our vote was a historical one for a great symbol and an energizing figure, but as a legislator Obama was only the better of two politicians in a sad political reality.


if we want to change corporate take over, change the cynical health care industry, change legalized prejudice, or change belligerent and immoral U.S. foreign policy, we still have to do it in spite of our formal leaders. we can, and we have to, but we can't rest now.


get in the streets. i'll be there soon.

love

tb

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

first snow

hey!

i thought it would come sooner. 5 months of this maybe will get boring but today yr doing good.

thinking

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Farewell Studs

Studs Terkel, a hero who knew how to stand with the working class, died Friday. Too bad he didn't live to witness the country and the people he represented in better shape and with better leadership.


Look here and here.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

am i alive?

this morning i hopelessly clicked on my tüpbebek shortcut and actually found my block. (glory be!) then i read the news. blogger has been temporarily unbanned, waiting for "missing evidence." to temporarily celebrate, i'm going to post some missing content: pictures from fall in Erzurum. but i also want to write a bit more about the ban and my thoughts, especially as it relates to Cumhuriyet Bayramı- Republic Day in Turkey, October 29th.

We must liberate our concepts of justice, our laws and our legal institutions from the bonds which, even though they are incompatible with the needs of our century, still hold a tight grip on us. -Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

digi-turk, a large Turkish cable provider, sued over blogger sites linking to free football games and a local court in Diyarbakir province (South-Eastern Turkey) made the ruling, which banned access to all blogger sites in Turkey. there are a few issues for the legal system to iron out here, like why a provincial court can make a ruling that bans access to internet for the whole country, and why the entire blog hosting service is banned instead of the specific sites breaching intellectual property rights (something that could be done with just a bit more work). but because of these anomalies, the bans can't represent the majority of the Turkish people or the Turkish courts.

in discussion boards about the banning of blogspot, i saw a lot of Turkish people very upset. but i asked my students about the banning and they seemed indifferent or apathetic. most answered by saying that they know how to get around banned sites with proxy servers, and they all know that youtube was banned because of attacks/criticism/satire on/of/about the founder of the modern Turkish Republic: Kemal Atatürk. but i was thinking, especially now that it is the Republic Holiday, of the countries the founder of modern Turkey was looking to as models of his Republic. for better or worse, he looked at Europe and The West when structuring the Turkish Republic (France especially influenced the political system and language). the list of countries that censor internet include Iran, North Korea, and Saudi Arabia. and i wonder what Atatürk would think about censorship and to find his Republic in this company on this issue today, even when the censorship is done in attempts to preserve his own legacy from defamation.

to be clear, i'm not trying to write for anyone, although i am trying to make an argument towards the release of censorship on certain grounds. and i'm finding myself more vocal on this topic since it has affected me personally. not only do i host this site on blogger, but i host 2 other sites for my students, one on American Cultural Studies and the other on Introductory Phonetics. much content like this gets caught up in the bans and inhibit the population from information and perspective.

----

by the way, i found an interesting Turkish group doing some action on this issue and others: meet the Young Civilians.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

This Blog: Banned

on this friday the 24th, blogger and blogspot fell the way of youtube, wordpress, and a specific Richard Dawkins' site: banned from Turkish IP addresses. (see here here here)


youtube was banned after videos satirizing/attacking/insulting Kemal Atatürk, the much revered founder of modern Turkey, had been posted.

wordpress was banned after the lawsuit of an Islamic creationist.

the reasons for restricting blogger/blogspot have not been officially released. i don't think this tube baby said anything too harmful. in case yr wondering, i'm now using a proxy to get to the site and post. most of my students do the same thing so they can watch youtube. the proxy changes what i see on the page though, so i can't add pics or embed links, or do all the things that make this blog pretty.

but this does mean that the blog is super rebellious and radical- so super rebellious and radical that it is officially banned by court order. these words are now civil disobedience.


-tb

Thursday, October 23, 2008

bilgi- Ergenekon

so it has been a week since my last post and about two weeks since a post with real substance. but i have been coming to the site and adding news articles related to the happenings in Turkey, and i'll take this post to discuss some of them.

after increased warfare with the militant-separatist Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) in the last 3 weeks, Turkey expanded its military missions in Iraq and the PKK has increased violence in South-Eastern Turkey against civilians and the military. later, reports that Abdullah Öcalan, the founding leader of PKK, was being abused in prison (where he serves a life sentence) led to protests in Istanbul and many cities in South-Eastern Turkey.

what has led in the headlines though is the mysterious Ergenekon, a supposed ultra-nationalist group known sometimes as the "deep state." some ninety presumed members have been indicted and were set to go on trial last Monday, but the hearings were postponed amidst a chaotic courtroom and will resume sometime this week. those accused of being part of the group, which is sometimes characterized as a terrorist organization, include academics, journalists, and high-ranking military and government officials. some are claiming that this is the biggest court case in Turkey's history.

the story of Ergenekon is interesting as it deals directly with age-old debates and factions in Turkish politics (mainly the relationship between a secular state and an Islamic majority), reflects the variety of perspectives and opinions in the Turkish press, and will test the democratic function of the current conservative government. Ergenekon has two recent charges, first for planning an assassination against Kurdish leaders and Orhan Pamuk (the nobel prize winning Turkish novelist) and next for plotting to overthrow the current government (there have been 3 military coups in Turkey's history, so the fear is justified). newspapers supporting the AKP, the Justice and Development Party that has been in power since 2002, report on links between Ergenekon and decades of terrorist attacks, military coups, and assassinations. they claim, for instance, that both Hezbollah and the PKK either have ties with or are sub-sections of Ergenekon. seemingly more objective sources reference plenty of misinformation in these charges against Ergenekon, citing contradictions in the farcically long 2,500 page indictment and the investigative dossier approaching 10,000 pages (as a reference, the Nuremberg Trial had an indictment of 70 pages). conflicting charges name past leaders of the PKK both as members of Ergenekon and as assassination targets by Ergenekon.

in my research of the story and history, the existence of Ergenekon is rarely contested, but it may be a name for individuals or small groups of influential secular-nationalists, perhaps linked more by a shared ideology than an administrative structure, that occasionally carried out violent acts to support their ideological goals. but it is likely that the AKP, which barely staved of its dissolution for being theocratic, is now tying its political opponents to Ergenekon and creating a series of specious links to do so.

i feel odd sometimes writing about Turkish political events but thought that some people back home might be interested. and the news story seems to represent a lot of the current tensions. i'm intersted in Turkish perspectives, from those watching this blog and the events in Turkey. i'll post some more as things happen-the trial will likely take months.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Çatalhöyük

reconstruction of a home

picture from on top of a mound looking a one of the dig sites

inside the bigger of 2 dig sites, visible are the many levels of the city

a home

in 7500 B.C., in south-central Anatolia this was the site of one of the first cities on earth. archeologists have found no evidence of official leaders or a class system, no evidence of violence or the need for weapons, and think that women at least held equal power in the society. (see more here, here, and here.)

driving through villages and melon fields, i tried to think of the land 10,000 years earlier. at the entrance, we waited for a guard to take us to the dig sites. walking up the mound, knowing that below me had been such a successfully egalitarian society was a great feeling.

thanks to Onur Ekdik for supplying the pictures since i forgot to take my camera.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Erzurum pics


View from the clock tower

Looking up at Yakutiye Madrassah, Mongol Empire, 1310 AD



Erzurum's Inner Fortress and Clock Tower, Roman Empire, 5th Century

-----
Erzurum is gorgeous! that's where you get to spend yr every day? you've been holding out on me/us.

yes, face, these pictures maybe. they are beautiful pictures, but as you wrote this i think they don't represent my experience or the experience of viewing the city in full. i haven't really figured out what a picture of erzurum is like.
i wanted to take some pictures of the university in fall, and that is really beautiful too, and quite different from these views of the city. the university is different from the city, the historical sites here are different than the commercial streets, the outskirts of both the university campus and the city are different than their more manicured centers...
even on my same walk to the office everyday, i can choose between either beautiful or sad or confused scenery (i'll stick to this position- i'm not confused, the scenery is). i hope to put up more pics soon of different parts of town, shepherds and sheep and their dogs, horse drawn carts, BMWs in unruly traffic, the dirt paths leading to my apartment, the advanced sprinkler system of Atatürk University, the men with their wild suits and the boys and elderly shinning their shoes

Saturday, October 11, 2008

a month and week of bits

it is not uncommon to bargain for medical operations. the medical advisor at the U.S. embassy had LASIK eye surgery for $800. low-income citizens have a green card for free health care. our group leader Ersin is irritated that we keep asking which doctors take our insurance- they all do. they all do. (any operations i've been itchin for? turkish for "i don't care if my kidney is dragging on the ground. 200 or this boy is hittin the road"?)

Bush's approval rating 25%, only one point better than the post-watergate Nixon. U.S. citizens approve congress 13% of the time, a record low. Pew report for Turkey has 12% favorablity towards the U.S., lowest of the 25 countries polled. Polls show skepticism about change with both Obama and McCain in Turkey.

watching Al Jazeera. dusty shoes, dusty apartment. coughy face. want to be a journalist.

Sean Hannity, your ass hat is showing again.

why is the economy the stock market? who needs a stock market?

the evenness of homes and genders at Çatalhöyük has me asking "what went wrong?" in Kappadokian cave-houses i hear myself saying "that's religulous" indiscriminately.

2009 looks like a great year for socialism. inşallah. commentator says socialists are punch-drunk.

filled in an Illinois circle for Ralph Nader. ballot affidavit incomprehensible.

the English Dept. has a tea room with two employees. i pick up the phone, dial, "Muhammed, merhaba, nasılsınz, iyim. bir çay lütfen." piping hot black tea in tulip shaped cup, lemon wedge, tiny spoon, bowl of sugar cubes appear on my desk.

Turkish student listing off metal bands to me "Iron Maiden, Pantera, Korn, Slipknot, Black Sabbath." his first time talking to a native speaker.

connection hasn't the girth to support the daily show. i miss you Jon.

my students have to be laughing at me right now. yes, wrong classroom. just kidding!- wish i could communicate with you. iyi akşamlar!

la!,la!,la!,la!

Thursday, October 9, 2008

speaking a new language

i didn't think i'd be relearning English here. at first i had to find out how to understand Turkish English, the woman on the plane saying "sandviç" three times before i understood, me thinking it was a Turkish word i didn't know (it is a loanword, but phonetically the same).

now, after my first day of classes, i'm clearly speaking a new English. i've been told that students have little or no experience with native speakers, affirmed by a student visiting my office today. he told me to slow down and repeat myself when i said "is-ben-goo-meding-you"- the words melting together, different from his reading literacy.

in my second class of the day, speaking and listening to pre-first-year students, someone remarked that i was not speaking american english.

"yes. i have had to- slow down- my english. because i need- everyone to hear- me. and to understand- what i- am saying to them."

it's interesting what slowing down and changing breathing patterns does to my thought process. i wonder if it helps students to slow down so much and to speak such an unnatural English.

what i have found out today is that teaching here, to about 300 foreign language learners, will be much different than teaching experiences i've had in the past.

made this post cause i was tired of looking at the beard.

Monday, October 6, 2008

countdown to beardless?

i need a residence permit before my first 30 days in Turkey run down

Deadline: October 9th

today, my friend and colleague said i'll need a photo, and for that photo i must shave as part of receiving a government issued id

history of a beard: full beard for a year and a half, before that scruff+ for at least 4 and a half years--some of these skin bits haven't seen sun in the good part of a decade
updates as the events unfold

October 9th:

my friend and collegue says i can probably keep the beard, i think because it is not a religous beard (how would he know?) and so i went to have a photo taken.

at the teknofoto, i narrowly escaped the photographer adding a long dark beard and robe in post production. it is possible that every photographer in the city thinks an american needs a photo disguise for Iran. and, with limited Turkish, one could imagine how difficult it would be to convince them otherwise. (nothing more to explain here, i'm as confused as you are).

so after some confusion, the beard is still here, but the outcome is yet to be determined. i am one document away from convincing local authorities that my residence is legit, but they have not seen my photographs yet. they have seen my beard and failed to mention it as a problem. but who knows if the spiritual signifigance of facial hair is determined after the paperwork?

October 11th:

yes, still bearded. no, no residence pass.

simple tasks need translators, complex tasks too. need residence pass to have a bank. need a bank to get paid. Fortis practically went under, money will be coming there.

October 13:

beard, yes, residence pass no. my friend got yelled at in the rector's office, where everyone wears a different suit (it's cute really, in the states, walk into any bureaucratic building and you'll see black suits styled the same way. here, the brown pinstripe with lavender tie doesn't always work, but at least he's trying something different), and he wants to find my papers through happier means (who could blame him). so, we're waiting. i'm waiting to be paid, owed 1,800 dollars right now.

Things Take Time in Turkey (a little alliteration we've been taught [not one of my favorites]).

plagiarized and editorialized

i've been trying while away to have some source of influence in political debates and political media back home, particularly when i found out about the anti-Islamic documentary Obsession inserted as a paid advertisement in 28 million swing-state newspapers (the documentary and the fear-mongering tactic has been used before. Fox "news" ran the film 9 times in 2 weeks just before the 2006 mid-term elections). the DVD's mass distribution, which has been denounced by leaders from all major religious, was paid for by Clarion Fund, an organization backing John McCain.

i first wrote a review of the documentary (see no. 2 kuebribd) on the New York Times website shortly after the film's mass distribution.*

then, The Dayton Daily News distributed the DVD and just a week later Muslim visitors of a Dayton mosque were attacked with a chemical spray while praying. this prompted me, with the pushing of a good friend, to write a more extensive letter to The Miami Student and The Dayton Daily News.

The Miami Student, perhaps the most conservative student newspaper in the world (and i'm not trying to exaggerate), published my letter in full but changed the title from "Documentary Advertisement Spreads Religious Hatred" to "Anti-West aggression should not be overlooked." if you read the letter, you will see that the new title is almost contradictory to the message.

i'm not sure whether the editorial board at The Miami Student has poor comprehension skills or if they editorialized my title, something they have done with my letters before, in an attempt to distort the message. perhaps they meant to write, Anti-West aggression should be reconsidered, or examined thoroughly and rationally. or that Anti-Islamic aggression should not be overlooked, choices which would come closer to the intended message of the letter. but with their new title, one might infer that the attack against a Dayton mosque was carried out by a Muslim instead of two impressionable teenagers who just watched the racist DVD they got with their Dayton Daily newspaper, a DVD that filled them with irrational fear and hatred against Muslims before encouraging them to "take a stand" (my inference on the catalyst of the attack).
-----
technically, my letter to the Dayton Daily News was not published, but when reading what was published on the editorial page, i found two paragraphs i recognized.

Dore Procopio of Dayton "wrote":
"What a horrible fear-mongering, brainless, guns-waving approach to the Middle East and Islam. It is being distributed in swing states as part of an anti-Islamic and pro-Republican ad campaign. Too bad the DDN couldn't resist the payoff.

If we wanted to get at the heart of the terrorist threat, we could start by looking at the oppression of the people in the Middle East. It's no coincidence that the poorest countries with histories of colonization and intervention lash out against the West."

Dore found my New York Times review, switched out "DDN" for "nytimes" and modified the opening phrase, but left the rest untouched. i was a bit shocked, as an English teacher seeing my writing plagiarized, but am actually flattered that someone thought my message was worth copying and distributing (my actual letter to the editor was a bit more thoughtful, but i guess the DDN disagreed). i also found out that, despite her challenges with originality, i kind of like Dore, who is a librarian (of all people you should know better!) and also an activist (here holding a "shame" sign for Ann Coulter). the NYtimes comments also showed up on a blog about conservative media bias, this time without someone stealing authorship.
-----
apologies for the long post with its links and bifurcations and which may seem to have little to do with Turkey. but the issue i was writing about hit home (my new home) as i owe my comfort and safety here to the many Muslims who have been warm, understanding, and hospitable, despite the many abuses to their religion, culture, and people from my country's government and media.

i also don't intend to be self promoting, here or in other posts (it's hard because the medium pushes me there), but i wanted to give a glimpse of how 15 minutes of bad writing spread to a few outlets in the U.S. media, even if it had to be plagiarized and distorted to make it there.

*Final note: i don't know exactly what i meant by "would have caused popular uprising in a just society," as i wrote the nytimes review quickly not thinking it would show up elsewhere. i think that another letter to the DDN said what i was thinking best: "I wonder if the DDN would also tout the First Amendment to allow a paying advertiser to distribute a [hate-filled]DVD about other groups such as Jews, blacks, etc.? I find it highly unlikely that the DDN would be waving the First Amendment banner in those cases" (Miller. "DDN should have looked into sources of information." Dayton Daily News, Oct. 2, 2008). or maybe this is what i think i wanted to write: our recent history and socialization has made it difficult for us to treat racist and prejudiced misrepresentations of Islam in the way we would treat the same misrepresentation of other ethnic or religious groups, even in such extreme examples as Obsession.

Mac Turko

My brother asked me to try out the McTurco and report back, so here it is with full visual documentation.


The McTurco is 2 patties, lettuce, tomato, carrot, sweet and tangy turko sauce in a sesame seed, sesame-seed oil pita bread. The McDonald's also features the double köfte burger (köfte translates to meatball but normally it is a flat spicy patty of beef or lamb), a double meat Big Mac, onion rings as a side order, and a smoking section that was in full effect. My McTurco meal took place the day after Ramadan, meaning that it was the first lunch in a month for many of Turks feasting with me (in Ramadan the religious population takes no food or water while the sun is up).


To counter this ridiculous McDonalds promotion, click on the unseemly gluttony below.


Untitled from tüpbebek on Vimeo.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Generic Update

at this time i've been in Turkey for about 3 weeks. i came during Ramadan, which just ended a few days ago and has affected my visit in interesting ways (image of women in headscarfs hollering while they play air-hockey in the park). i will be living in Erzurum, in the mountains only about 200 miles from Tehran, and i have already visited and set up my apartment and office there (i feel extremely comfortable because of the hospitality of everyone). for the moment i am in Konya, about 150 miles south of Ankara, with a gracious friend for the Bayram holiday. i've also spent 3 days each in Ankara and Istanbul, mostly visiting tourist sites and eating good food. i have posts drafted about religion and public education, driving in Turkey, McDonalds, and being the only American in Erzurum (a subjective reality that has recently changed). in the coming months i'll be teaching english and american studies at Atatürk University, fearing God and -40 weather, and traveling as much as possible.

The Phenomenology of Eating Testicles

at home before heading off to Turkey, my dad would call me into the room when he was watching tv: “have you ever seen this guy? he travels the world eating all sorts of strange foods.” the 3 or 4 times i watched, perhaps 3 or 4 different versions of the same show, the travelers ate some form of testicles.

walking down a strip in Istanbul, my friend turned to me and asked if i'd like to eat lamb colon, which made me think of my dad and the travel show fetishism of strange meats.


why is it that travel becomes linked with eating strange foods, especially strange meats? especially in über-choice, globalized u.s. food markets we can probably eat testicle right at home, anytime we want. doubtless i could seek a local butcher in the u.s. serving a variety of strange meaty portions, but i never have.


so why are travel shows so often about eating testicles and why did i commit to eating lamb colon because i was walking down the street in a foreign country? my guess is that the act of eating strange meats becomes sound-bite exoticism. i'll call this the “you'll meet an acquaintance at a bar theory of travel.”


a bar somewhere in northern Illinois:

Acquaintance: “Hey man, i heard you went to Turkey, how was it?”

Me: “Turkey was nuts! they eat lamb colon over there!”

A: “did you try it?”

Me: “Hell Yes I did, and it was Awesome!”


the shock value of the food represents both the foreignness of my travels and my immersion into them. if i travel around Turkey without eating all the strange intestinal and sexual organs available then folks at home will think i haven't engaged with the culture. so i found myself eating lamb colon in Istanbul because it validates my travel experience.


(by the way, the dish is named kokoreç, and the lamb colon is ground up with spices, cooked on a skewer, and then finely chopped with vegetables and placed on submarine sandwich bread. it is really spicy and my Turkish friends say it is healthy and good to eat after a night of drinking.)

smooth slow record Konya

i'm working with a sony dcr-sr300 handycam which has a "smooth slow record" function that takes about 4 seconds of video and slows it into 12 seconds. when the audio is on it records-weird-in real time, so i take the films in silence. i'm only just begining to see what is interesting in this format and have gladly passed the filming water drip from a fountain stage (no promises i won't regress).

unstable movements, as a rule, seem to be the most interesting to take. the balance of a motorcycle and the slow change of facial expressions and body movements attracted me in my last outing with the camera.

the videos below were all taken on the first day of the post-Ramadan holiday. the streets in Konya were more active than in the last 3 days of my stay as people moved across town to visit with family and eat their first lunch in a month (more on my McDonalds experience with them later). the day was uncharacteristically cold and overcast.


Faces Konya from tüpbebek on Vimeo.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

kedi

probably the most endearing surprise in my 3 days in Istanbul were the cats. i've heard you can tell a lot about a culture by the way they treat their animals. in chiapas mexico, poverty violated everyone and it wasn't suprising to see an elderly man in the market taking out some frustration by whacking a stray, starving dog with his cane.

in istanbul cats and dogs have few official owners but they have become surrogate pets for tourists and shopkeepers. streetcats find friends who feed them and provide temporary shelter. in alleys restaurant workers happily offer their scraps to waiting cats and dogs who moan in joy over the meals. i walked around practicing "kedi" and wondering if i could find a part-time pet in Erzurum.


kedi and/or crotch shots from tüpbebek on Vimeo.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

On Tüpbebek

  1. (trans: ten tube babies)
  2. the name should be obvious
  3. this is the tube baby
  4. bebek is for myself, and everyone
  5. Ted Stevens (R-Alaska)
  6. artificial-asexual color and shape insemination
  7. say what you mean:
  8. i thought it was cute and messy
  9. this is for the diverse crowd of people i wish i had here with me
  10. recourse our life in a tube.
  11. sorry to confused future Turkish tube parents
  12. leave comments, questions, frustrations, please
  13. love